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珠穆朗玛峰大本营的艰辛与艰辛

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我们昨天从珠穆朗玛峰回来。这真是令人惊讶的3周(是21天,而不是14天),而且非常艰难,因此,您需要了解有关珠穆朗玛峰大本营徒步旅行(EBC)的难度级别的几点信息,以获取娱乐和一般信息,并帮助您确定此喜马拉雅山远足路线是否适合您。有困难,问题和陷阱。希望我们能通过一些第一手经验和技巧帮助您进入珠穆朗玛峰,但是难点是什么?带孩子们进来会增加问题吗?那里到底是什么感觉?我们会尽力告诉您。

Everest Base Camp Difficulty“ class =” wp-image-36528“ data-lazy-srcset =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Difficulty.jpg 925w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Difficulty-300x225.jpg 300w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest -Base-Camp-Difficulty-768x576.jpg 768w“ data-lazy-sizes =”(最大宽度:925px)100vw,925px“ data-lazy-src =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads /2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Difficulty.jpg
珠穆朗玛峰大本营。昆布冰川和昆布冰瀑可以看到珠穆朗玛峰。困难,危险以及完成EBC跋涉或远足的感觉如何?

我一直在抱怨-这根本不是我在这里所做的。我是这样说的。这篇文章既不是关于过去20年来我如何成为珠穆朗玛峰大本营的,也不是关于这3周的经历有多棒。这与我在南奇(Namche)上方看到珠穆朗玛峰时的幸福眼泪,也不是我第一次看到昆布冰瀑或为那些遇难者和喜马拉雅山攀登伟大英雄而建的纪念碑时所流下的眼泪。

斯科特·菲舍尔(Scott Fischer)死于珠穆朗玛峰。他在珠穆朗玛峰大本营路线上的纪念馆,投注周Dingboche和Lobuche尼泊尔“ class =” wp-image-36539“ data-lazy-srcset =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Scott -Fischer死在珠穆朗玛峰上-他的珠穆朗玛峰-基地-营地路线-betweek-betweek-Dingboche-and-Lobuche.jpg 600w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads / 2018/10 / Scott-Fischer死在珠穆朗玛峰上。他在珠穆朗玛峰基地营地路线上的纪念日betweek-Dingboche-and-Lobuche-200x300.jpg 200w“数据延迟大小=“(最大宽度:600像素)100vw,600像素” data-lazy-src =“ https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Scott-Fischer-Died-on-Everest.-His珠穆朗玛峰基地营路线betweek-Dingboche-and-Lobuche.jpg的纪念
纪念馆位于丁博奇和洛布其之间。

不,这会有更多。我可以而且还会在徒步旅行,路线,城镇和乡村,以及最重要的是如何安排自己的徒步旅行上写数十篇文章。不要跟旅行团一起去,这是我们最重要的提示。

今天的帖子只不过是徒步到珠穆朗玛峰大本营的困难和艰辛。它们的价值超过一百万倍,但我需要把它们放下来,直到它们永远消失在我的脑海中。我会记得这三个星期是一次难得的经历,是很少有人享受的特权和挑战。那里很棒。

我们在没有向导或搬运工的情况下徒步前往珠穆朗玛峰大本营,我们认为在尼泊尔徒步旅行几次后没有必要,但您可能更愿意参加。

珠峰大本营艰苦跋涉-前十一名

EBC Trek几乎没有WiFi,电话连接或电源。

珠穆朗玛峰大本营迷航穿越桥上的波特“ class =” wp-image-36529“ data-lazy-srcset =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Porter-on-the- Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-crossing-bridge.jpg 925w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Porter-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-crossing-bridge -150x150.jpg 150w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Porter-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-crossing-bridge-300x300.jpg 300w,https:/ /worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Porter-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-crossing-bridge-768x768.jpg 768w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/上载/ 2018/10 /珠穆朗玛峰-波特-坎普-徒步穿越桥梁100x100.jpg 100w“ data-lazy-sizes =”(最大宽度:925px)100vw,925px“ data-lazy -src =“ https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Porter-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-crossing-bridge.jpg
一名当地搬运工满载(最大100 Kg),穿越珠穆朗玛峰大本营跋涉的最高桥梁。这座桥是2个小时攀登开始的地方,直达Namche Bazaar,那里有一个不错的电话信号,而德国面包店则提供免费的Wi-Fi和充电功能。

对您来说,这听起来很美妙,没有电子邮件或社交媒体的2-3周,但是对我(和孩子们)来说,这很艰难。我在线上工作,我必须在线上,我认为我们根据他人的经验对连接性抱有错误的期望。

我们有本地的N Cell SIM卡,这些卡在Namche(部分在Lukla)工作得很好,在Gorak Shep中短暂地发出了可怜的信号。通常没有任何东西。

Everest Link WiFi价格昂贵,我们无法证明价格合理,但是您应该能够在大多数城镇和乡村的旅馆中找到它。

宾馆(旅馆/茶馆)和面包店(南奇)很少有免费WiFi,收费无线网络的频率更高,但是我们尝试的每个Wi-Fi连接都有上传限制,因此我无法备份照片。

那里有任何连接,这真是令人惊讶,我非常感谢能建立连接,但是从EBC徒步旅行开始是不可能的。我对可用互联网的想法与非专业用户的想法可能大不相同。

寻找电源也很困难,旅馆业主要按小时或每次充满电向您收费,而随着我们四个人在不断增加的海拔高度,这将是非常昂贵的。

我们的太阳能充电器是我们最好的朋友,但并未完全让我们保持充电状态。 4个之间的太阳能充电器是不够的,但对于单人或情侣徒步旅行者来说应该没问题。太阳能电池组的重量为半公斤,因此我们不想购买两公斤并增加我们的重量。 (看到我们在这里使用的太阳能电池板,这很好)

一天结束时,有时候没有任何联系是件不错的事情。它迫使我们玩 垄断交易几个小时或只是早点睡觉。与往常一样,没有WiFi会比坏WiFi更好。

你会闻起来像Like牛的腋窝

在珠穆朗玛峰大本营跋涉牛。困难与危险“ class =” wp-image-36527“ data-lazy-srcset =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Yak-Everest -Base-Camp-Trek.jpg 925w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Yak-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-254x300.jpg 254w,https://worldtravelfamily.com /wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Yak-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-768x908.jpg 768w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Yak-Everest-Base- Camp-Trek-866x1024.jpg 866w“ data-lazy-sizes =”(最大宽度:925px)100vw,925px“ data-lazy-src =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/ 10 / Yak-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek.jpg
这种the牛在珠穆朗玛峰大本营徒步旅行中登上Tengboche Hill(上升2小时,下降1小时),比普通的徒步旅行者闻起来更香。 ks牛和其他动物可能是真正的危险,它们可能将您推开路线,您真的不想在桥中间遇到车队。

我们计划进行为期2周的跋涉,不希望从Phaplu步行而不是飞往卢克拉(Lukla),也不希望要花更多的休息时间来康复。我们徒步旅行了三个星期。

我有一套穿旧衣服的系统,直到它们变脏或不再需要为止,然后再把它们抛在后面,效果很好,除了上周!

我们白天和黑夜都至少飞行了一个星期才穿同样的衣服。

袜子和鞋子是主要的臭味冒犯者,因此我们所有人都在纳姆切买了几双新袜子,并用昂贵的湿巾处理了有臭味的脚。但是,我们还是很烂。

据记录,在南奇,袜子每双3美元,湿巾每盒6美元。

说我们闻起来像like牛的腋窝,可能是to牛的冒犯。

是的,有些旅馆有热水淋浴,您需要付费。厨师在Phaplu和Namche之间洗了一次澡,其余的人三分之三没洗。

主要问题是,我们只用了一条全尺寸的旅行毛巾,后来又无法洗涤和干燥。别人用完不洗的毛巾我就不用。厨师继续用它洗脚。尽管受到了最多的关注,他的脚仍然是最毒的。

我们应该各取一条毛巾,但是那样会使您体重增加。我们还应该在Dingboche洗毛巾,在那里我们可以在无臭的水槽中洗水,也可以在这里晾干湿衣服。我们在这里洗了几双袜子,它们在24小时内几乎在阳光下晒干。第二天,我们将它们捆在包装的外面,以完成干燥。

我们错误地认为,在降落的路上,我们可以在Namche洗更多的手,但不幸的是我们做不到。

在途中,我们付钱在Namche洗衣服,大约1公斤洗衣费用为16美元。相比之下,在加德满都,洗衣成本每公斤不到1美元。

我们最终在Namche使用的小屋根本没有淋浴,还有一个像瘟疫一样避开的浴室-早上我甚至带着牙刷去面包店以避免使用那个浴室。 Namche饱了,我们病了,所以我们继续发臭。

病(贾第鞭毛虫)也损害了您可用的衣橱。在平衡衣物量与背包重量之间的平衡时,要做好充分准备是很难的。这仍然不会诱使我们选择搬运工,我们希望携带自己的装备并将其视为挑战的一部分。

进出卢卡拉的航班经常被取消,我们的

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尼泊尔卢克拉机场的直升机区域。经典的珠穆朗玛峰大本营跋涉始于卢克拉机场(从后面可以看到倾斜的跑道)。不幸的是,卢克拉(Lukla)和加德满都(Kathmandu)的理想状态并非始终存在,许多航班被取消。我们是今年10月,所以我们从Phaplu开始,而不是从Lukla开始,或者,您可以付费购买直升飞机到Lukla或Namche。

甚至在我们到达机场之前,我们对航班都感觉不好。

当我们在10月的旺季到达时,预计会有蓝天,但是前往珠穆朗玛峰地区的大量徒步旅行者意味着我们只能乘坐Tara航空公司的航班上午10.30。

上午10:30是较晚的航班,您需要预订最早的航班才能获得最大的飞行机会,通常是早上6点。

塔拉(Tara)很好,它们有很多飞机,价格也比新兴航空公司的Summit飞机低。但是,季风一直持续到今年,当我们到达加德满都特里布万机场的最后6天,大多数航班都被取消了。

那天我们不可能飞往卢克拉。

如果您的飞机被取消,您将进入队列的后面,并且航班已取消6天,这似乎使我们可能需要等待一周才能飞往卢克拉。

直升机兜售者在机场候机区巡视时,现金从游客的钱包中流出。菜刀在飞机不飞行时飞翔,价格飞涨,我们听说有6个人用最少的行李就可以得到每位菜刀$ 2400- $ 2800。时间有限,梦想宏伟的游客正在抢购这些菜刀。

对于一个人来说,这不是一个太大的花费,但是对于一个四口之家来说,买不起一架直升机,所以我们和12个新朋友一起决定飞往Phaplu并步行而不是在加德满都机场呆一个星期。

我们仍然与一些勇敢的人保持联系,并在头几天与他们同行很开心。

Phaplu到卢克拉(Lukla)远足尼泊尔“ class =” wp-image-36540“ data-lazy-srcset =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Phaplu-to-Lukla-1.jpg 635w ,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Phaplu-to-Lukla-1-300x210.jpg 300w“ data-lazy-sizes =”(最大宽度:635px)100vw,635px“ data-lazy-src =“ https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Phaplu-to-Lukla-1.jpg
当我们取消了卢克拉航班时,这群人几乎包租了我们从加德满都飞往帕普卢的私人航班。 Boo和我不能跟上这些适合20岁的东西的时间,但是我们在一起的第一或第二天过得很愉快。您会遇到来自世界各地的人们。从刚大学毕业的孩子到70多岁的人们。如果您正在寻找EBC,那么您绝对不会缺少与之交谈的人。

我们4年前从卢卡拉(Lukla)步行到帕普卢(Phaplu),真的不想再做一次,虽然不好,但是需要。实际上,这次由于较干燥的步道,在Phaplu-Lukla徒步旅行时更令人愉快,但仍然是艰难的徒步旅行,有很多攀登和下降。永远不要以为这些跋涉是渐进式的攀登,您永远跌入山谷穿越河流,然后再攀登下一个高峰。

从卢卡拉(Lukla)起飞也很麻烦,尽管我们确实做到了,但登顶乘客比塔拉(Tara)或雪人(Yeti)回来遇到的麻烦要多得多,最终我们登上了登顶。首脑会议的飞机稍大一些,也较新。我们遇到了一个老朋友夏尔巴·尼玛(Sherpa Nema),他帮助我们从卢卡拉(Lukla)逃脱。同样,有些人已经等了4天才下车。

高原反应,病毒,水泡和贾第虫

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他们说,珠穆朗玛峰徒步旅行几乎到处都有的大蒜汤有助于高原反应。我说大蒜和多余的液体必须对几乎任何疾病都有益。不幸的是,它不足以满足饥饿的徒步旅行者的需求,但是还不错。

我们在海拔方面并没有真正的问题,但是很多人这样做,最终被淘汰。

避免危及生命的高原反应的最佳方法是独立跋涉,以便让自己有更多的适应时间,并在需要时缩短攀登时间。

我说没问题,但是您仍然会敏锐地感觉到海拔高度的影响,呼吸困难,而且我发现经常深呼吸会影响我的睡眠。缺氧的四肢发麻,Diamox似乎既没有增加也没有减少这种感觉的频率。我们没有一个人能逃脱这些较轻的症状,但是我们没有海拔高度的影响,使我们认为我们应该紧急下降,也没有海拔头痛。

Boo和我从Namche拿起Diamox作为预防剂,D和Chef选择不这样做。您可以在加德满都的药房购买Diamox,价格仅为两美元。我们没有副作用。

他们说每天在高空喝4升液体。我非常怀疑我们是否接近这一点。四升是巨大的体积,但是我们尽可能下沉更多的红茶和汤,以保持充值,并在徒步旅行时根据需要喝了些水。

在我们四个人和一个驼背式系统之间,我们有3个1 L L Nalgene宽口瓶。我们只需要2瓶,因为通常在每个旅馆或午餐站都可以轻松地重新装瓶。我们使用氯基净水片没有问题。

我们在Lobuche(距大本营仅一站路)开始出现的健康问题,在那儿,我因发烧和感冒症状而病倒了。此病毒在接下来的几天中先后传播给Boo,Chef和D。收拾大量对乙酰氨基酚,一旦发烧,我们就将其扑灭。几乎所有人都生病了。

D也被贾第鞭毛虫击中,其特征性的卵状打ps很容易发现。大多数贾第鞭毛虫不需要治疗,但我考虑过要在南奇给他买1剂量的抗生素。它可以使用,但是几乎已经过时,并且看起来不太值得信赖,因此我们采用了观察和等待政策。我和一位医生朋友一起检查了所有这一切,她证实我们所做的一切都很好。他几天就好了。

有一次,我们在丁波切上空发生了浴室紧急事件,有一个厕所,但一卷纸要4美元。在Gorak Shep,这也是1升瓶装水的价格。这是我们唯一一次需要购买塑料水的地方,在其他任何地方,我们都只使用带有净化片剂的自来水,而在Gorak Shep却没有自来水。一瓶白开水上面要花10美元左右。

您始终需要携带自己的卫生纸和肥皂。很少提供。

当D生病时,我们尝试了我包装的活性炭胶囊,它们似乎有所帮助。我们是该产品的新粉丝,我们从朋友那里听到了很多。我在卢卡拉(Lukla)感到恶心,木炭似乎把它带走了。也许这是巧合,但似乎可行。

我们谁都不会起水泡,因为我们不穿两双袜子,只买适合的靴子或鞋子。我喜欢穿薄袜子。在此徒步旅行装备页面中可以找到更多信息。实际上,您也不需要靴子,如果没有雪,也不需要。

那里的徒步旅行者太多

正如我之前所说,十月是高峰时间。过去几次只有在尼泊尔徒步旅行,我们被那里的人数震惊了。当然,我们是问题的一部分,我们也在那里,尽管我们遇到的一些人态度认真,但我们无权上山。似乎总是年纪大的人(通常是在旅行团中),他们的态度和权利问题都没有考虑到。

在某些时候,珠穆朗玛峰大本营的小路被徒步旅行者向前踩着,结实地堵塞了。有时您可能会超车,有时会陷于困境。这些徒步旅行者大部分都在大型旅行团中,为拥挤的人群增加了向导和多名行李搬运工。

大本营本身就是一群人争先恐后地拍照留念。您会注意到,我们的照片是从标有该地点的主要冰和经flag上移开的。同样,一些旅行团不愉快,好斗且有资格。

整个城镇都被预订一空,没有床可以找到,旅馆和向导们通过掏钱包来行使自己的权力。尽量避免旅行团正在使用的小屋。

我不会在10月再次徒步旅行,我们在2月和3月徒步旅行时有更好的体验,但实际上错过了大雪。我们的小径上根本没有积雪,温度几乎不会低于零,但是我们确实有令人惊叹的蓝天,而且大部分时间都是晴天。这就是10月的徒步旅行者的原因。

根据记录,与最近的Facebook meme中的信息相反,一点也没有乱扔垃圾。人们在不了解事实的情况下传播的这些愚蠢的,耸人听闻的模因令人深感不安。我看到一名妇女在3周内投下了一根甜包装。实际上,经常有垃圾箱和回收箱,从来没有装满或溢出。

价格高,价格昂贵,有骗局

就像我在上面说的那样,小屋的订位推高了价格。在德博奇,我们被导游/旅馆老板骗取了皇家,每间客房必须支付10美元。这对您来说听起来很便宜,但总的来说是房间是免费的,您只需支付食物费用即可。大多数地方的收费是每间客房$ 2,Lobuche的固定收费是$ 7。

这里的内容太多了,房价的故事和系统很复杂,但是几天后我们明智地提出了自己的想法,并决定留在旅行团跳过的城镇。房间突然又变得自由了,旅馆老板很高兴见到我们。我们很高兴为他们提供现金,以获得更好的体验。

在从Phaplu到Lukla的旅途中,在我们加入EBC主干道之前,我们没有任何这些问题。房间是免费的还是便宜的,食物更好,更丰富。一旦我们加入EBC旅游路线,食品价格几乎翻了一番。

住宿不是奢侈

珠穆朗玛峰大本营迷航茶馆的住宿“ class =” wp-image-36536“ data-lazy-srcset =” https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Accommodation-on-the- Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tea-House.jpg 950w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Accommodation-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tea-House -300x252.jpg 300w,https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Accommodation-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tea-House-768x644.jpg 768w“ data-lazy -sizes =“(最大宽度:950px)100vw,950px” data-lazy-src =“ https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Accommodation-on-the-Everest-Base- Camp-Trek-Tea-House.jpg
珠穆朗玛峰大本营徒步旅行有什么样的住宿?这个房间很典型。旅馆或茶馆非常基本,没有暖气,隔音效果为零。安静地说话!这个房间实际上是整个跋涉中最好,最干净的房间之一,每晚花费我们100卢比(约合1美元)。我把价格降低了下来,被告知不要告诉别人我们要付什么,最后房间的那个女士每晚要付10美元。这个房间实际上有自己的带有淋浴和电源插座的浴室,我们不允许未经付费就充电或使用热水。共用卫生间要普遍得多,房间中的电源插座几乎永远不会发生。

住宿条件很基本,很冷,也很干净。我对此很满意,这是我第三次喜马拉雅山跋涉,但如果您是新手,则需要知道会发生什么。

客房通常配有2张单人床,带薄泡沫垫的木制婴儿床。总是提供床单,枕头和枕套以及某种毯子或羽绒被。不要期望它们会在客户之间被洗掉。

我们看到几个房间可容纳3个房间,但除了引导员和搬运工的宿舍之外,再没有一个可以容纳4个房间。

大多数跋涉者都带睡袋,我只有一个摇粒绒衬里,几乎没有背包就足够保暖。您将需要在床上穿大部分衣服,换衣服最温暖,但并非总是可能。在床上戴上保暖帽是必不可少的。

在加德满都租用一个睡袋是在Thamel的High Himal(比Shona的便宜)每天80卢比/天,租用3周不到20美元,但一个袋子是1.5公斤,我不想随身携带。我对不带睡袋的选择感到满意。

我们在罗马尼亚农村度过了两个冬天,冬天的温度要低得多,而且只使用过普通的羽绒被,所以我坚信我不需要睡袋来攀登珠穆朗玛峰。另外,两年前,我们在冬天没有背包的情况下徒步旅行到南奇。很好,一年中的那个时候我们在Namche的温度为-10 C.我很高兴孩子们有书包,但是没有我很好。

房间通常是没有隔音或隔热的硬质隔间。您可以获得带基本浴室的客房,但通常您会共用一个蹲厕或西式厕所。

他们不是很干净。

卫生纸需要放入垃圾箱中,然后您将用桶和瓢冲洗或冲洗。

旅馆的饭厅将没有暖气,或者在冬天或高海拔地区,将有a牛粪炉。

我喜欢这些简单的小屋(有时也称为茶馆),孩子们发现它们很舒适。他们很有趣,很正宗,但是我无法想象我的母亲住在一个。

食物和营养不是最好的

我们吃了很多土豆。早餐午餐和晚餐,炸土豆加少量洋葱,辣椒或白菜。上面放一个鸡蛋以获取蛋白质。在Gorak Shep,炸土豆配蔬菜和鸡蛋的价格是每盘8美元。

除了土豆以外,还有炒面,泰铢,莫莫斯,藏族面包,也许还有番茄酱意面。

汤很多,但通常不足以容纳饥饿的徒步旅行者。我经常喝大蒜汤,厨师和男孩们会去买他们能找到的最大,最便宜的东西。

Dal Baht美味可口,是我在世界上最喜欢的一餐。如果您饿了,这是一个不错的选择,因为充值免费,但是在非常旅游的旅馆中,充值的部分变小了,充值也消失了。 8美元是我们看到的最高价格,泰铢。在加德满都,我们支付不到3美元。

在有人踩踏和抱怨价格暴跌之前,请记住,您在这里吃饭的所有东西都必须被拿走,通常要花几天时间。一切都花得越多,您从交通中获得的费用就越多,在Gorak Shep,我们距公路8天的路程。

因此,填充碳水化合物很容易,但是蛋白质和蔬菜并不是一个大功能。达铢汤汁中的扁豆极少,主要由大米和土豆组成。

超过3周的限制饮食开始变得困难,我不时完全食欲不振。 Be sure to take your usual vitamin and mineral tablets, you’ll need them.. We all lost a lot of weight, a stone each, possibly more.

Taking the Kids to EBC – Not Difficult

11 ways everest base camp is difficult" class="wp-image-40663" data-lazy-srcset="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/11-ways-everest-base-camp-is-difficult-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/11-ways-everest-base-camp-is-difficult-200x300.jpg 200w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/11-ways-everest-base-camp-is-difficult.jpg 735w" data-lazy-sizes="(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px" data-lazy-src="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/11-ways-everest-base-camp-is-difficult-683x1024.jpg

D, at 14 and a head taller than me raced ahead hardly noticing his pack.  Little Boo and I trailed behind. He has short legs, I’m 52 and not very fit. Sometimes he had to hand his pack, just 2 or 3 Kg, over to his dad.

They were great and did incredibly well, so taking the kids to Everest Base Camp was no difficulty at all.

They both loved meeting people and chatting as we walked, D more so, Boo is still shy until he gets to know people.

They were a dream to trek with but they’ve had plenty of experience in walking, packing, travel, thinking for themselves and just being resilient, sensible and adaptable.

I wouldn’t take kids below about 10 years old, I’d have to be very, very sure that any child wouldn’t be a danger to themselves or other people. You need to keep a very watchful eye on kids up there and keep them ultra close.

At one point we passed a school group accompanied by teachers and porters, 16-17 year olds. They didn’t have a clue what they were doing and almost bowled Boo and I off some steps walking 4 abreast and chatting between themselves. No way, on this Earth, would I allow my kids to go in a group such as that. It’s dangerous up there. One girl was trailing behind complaining of sore legs already, after less than half a day walking. It’s a big responsibility taking kids on such a long hike, where safety is an issue, at altitude. Just no!

D wanted to complete the trek for the bragging rights, Boo wasn’t so keen on this adventure but before we left Kathmandu he told me that he planned to be really good at it. He was, he was amazing. He has grit and determination and broke into a run to be the first of us back into Lukla.

I’m very proud of them both. Yes, there was bribery and rewards, they both got $10 to spend on sweets last night, well deserved, and new computer games were part of our deal. They’re proud of themselves and successfully completing such a major challenge can only be good for their self-esteem.

Walking Difficulty of the Everest Base Camp Trek Itself

Everest Base Camp Trek Lobuche to Dingboche " class="wp-image-36532" data-lazy-srcset="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Lobuche-to-Dingboche.jpg 925w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Lobuche-to-Dingboche-300x224.jpg 300w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Lobuche-to-Dingboche-768x573.jpg 768w" data-lazy-sizes="(max-width: 925px) 100vw, 925px" data-lazy-src="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Lobuche-to-Dingboche.jpg
An almost flat part of the Everest Base Camp Trek with very low difficulty. Between Dingboche and Loboche you’ll find this nice section, but beware, there is also a hill that will take you around 2 hours to climb. Pheriche is in the valley below, you can either go through Pheriche or Dingboche, Dingboche is supposedly less windy and exposed and we liked it, so we chose the high road.

This is what people ask first, how hard is the walk?

I’ve put this towards the end because really, the difficulty of the walk is unimportant. The whole package is a challenge, all the factors above and more. The walk, well, most people can walk. We walked with people in their 60s and 70s, I am in my 50s, most people should be able to do this trek and high fitness isn’t really required

If you’re slow, go slow, that’s fine. Let the hares race on. It’s cool to be the tortoise and you’ll likely acclimatise better.

This is why I say to not go with a tour group, you need to go at your own pace.

Yes it’s a tough walk. Every day you will gain altitude and lose it again as you drop to a river crossing. Then you’ll face a steep uphill section to get back to where you were previously. This is no gradual ascent.

Above Lukla the trails are pretty good and well maintained but you’ll still find rough, rocky and treacherous areas. Below Lukla, on the way to Phaplu, trails are bad and damaged by heavy donkey traffic.

The distance from Lukla to Everest Base Camp is under 60 Km, not far. The major difficulty lies in the altitude.

For me even turning over in bed made me breathless once we were high, so every uphill step made me pause. I aimed to never increase my heart rate because recovery with insufficient oxygen took too long. Slowly slowly, one step at a time.

We hardly noticed our packs after the first day or two, I was carrying around 12 Kg and was very glad that I’d invested in this good, new, trekking pack. It made all the difference. Chef carried between 15 and 20 Kg.

Accommodation on the Everest Base Camp Trek Tea House" class="wp-image-36538" data-lazy-srcset="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Hardest-part-of-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tengboche-Hill.jpg 925w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Hardest-part-of-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tengboche-Hill-150x150.jpg 150w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Hardest-part-of-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tengboche-Hill-300x300.jpg 300w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Hardest-part-of-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tengboche-Hill-768x768.jpg 768w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Hardest-part-of-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tengboche-Hill-100x100.jpg 100w" data-lazy-sizes="(max-width: 925px) 100vw, 925px" data-lazy-src="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Hardest-part-of-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Trek-Tengboche-Hill.jpg
Tengboche Hill is one of the hardest parts of the EBC trek. It’s around 2 hours up, one hour down. Here Chef is wearing his own pack as well as our younger son’s pack. Carrying a pack is hard on kids and we’d suggest you don’t make them do it or be ready to take them when they get tired. Our teenager barely noticed his own pack. Chef wore shorts every day, adding leggings underneath at Loboche when temperatures dropped.

The hardest parts are obviously the up and down bits, flat parts do exist and they are easy. Some people find downhill harder, it’s tough on knees, others, like me, struggle with uphill section. The longest , hardest, uphill sections are the climbs to Namche and to Tengboche, both took us around 2 hours. Coming down those hills takes under half that time.

One of the hardest parts for me was the walk from Gorak Shep to Base Camp. You can see Base Camp in the distance, it looks like it’s 10 minutes away, but the walk along the moraine of the Khumbu glacier took us 3 hours there, 2 hours back. The path dips, weaves and climbs and at above 5,000 m altitude effects are brutal.

Because the Everest trek is a there and back rout ( unlike the Annapurna Circuit, for instance, which is a loop) coming back down gets pretty boring as there is little else to see. You can take different routes, go to Gokyo Lakes, Kumjung etc, but we weren’t prepared to take kids over the Cho La pass even in summer ( our guide friend said this was a very bad idea too) and by the time we got to the Gokyo turn off near Namche we’d all had enough. We stuck with just the EBC plus the Phaplu walk-in.

Would I do it again? No. I’ve done it, I have no need to go back. this was also our second time as far as Tengboche, we took the kids for a walk up here when they were younger.

Would I do more high altitude trekking? Yes, of course, but not right now. I need time to recover and use good wi-fi before even thinking about any more hiking.

Did I love it up there? So much.

It’s Scary

This is just me, I’m a wimp and terrified of my own shadow sometimes. I really don’t like heights and there are a lot to deal with.

Once you’re over the hurdle of the flights on tiny planes and Lukla’s short, uphill, landing strip, there are paths with precipitous drops, landslides and of course, the bridges.

The bridge above ( see video, top) is just below Namche and I find it terrifying. It amazes me that so many people walk across it with no apparent fear at all. It scares the holy crap out of me and is a major issue.

My desire to be up in the mountains is stronger than my fear though, so I just have to woman-up and deal with it. I get there.

Tengboche Monastery on the Everest Base Camp Hike" class="wp-image-36533" data-lazy-srcset="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Tengboche-Monastery-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Hike.jpg 925w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Tengboche-Monastery-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Hike-150x150.jpg 150w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Tengboche-Monastery-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Hike-300x300.jpg 300w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Tengboche-Monastery-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Hike-768x769.jpg 768w, https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Tengboche-Monastery-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Hike-100x100.jpg 100w" data-lazy-sizes="(max-width: 925px) 100vw, 925px" data-lazy-src="https://worldtravelfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Tengboche-Monastery-on-the-Everest-Base-Camp-Hike.jpg
Tengboche Monastery, the most important monastery in the Khumbu region, home to the Sherpa people who migrated from Tibet some 500 years ago. We caught the monks at morning prayers complete with drums, horns and gongs. To hear that, smell it, see it, was worth every second of dirt, pain and sickness on the hike.

So yes, it was hard. I don’t think any sane person would expect it not to be. Tackling hundreds of feet of uphill and downhill on rocky terrain would present most people with difficulty at sea level. The lack of oxygen at over 5000m, oxygen here is is at around 50% of normal levels, is something you feel on top of that. I’m missing the mountains already despite being back in wonderful Kathmandu with more weeks of exploring ahead of us. It’s always hard to leave the villages, people and views of the Khumbu.
A little video on some of the sticky, scary, annoying and hard parts on the Everest Base Camp Trek. If it doesn’t appear below, it’s at the very top of the page ( it’s a bit unpredictable and you won’t be able to see it if using an ad- blocker.)

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